Phuket Old Town: a half-day walk

Tin paid for all of this. When the mines were running, the town built long two-storey shophouses — painted fronts, wooden shutters, plaster mouldings, and an arcade along the bottom so you walk in the shade. Thalang Road kept its facades best. That's why nearly every photo of the town you've seen was taken there.

Then wander. Soi Rommanee is a short lane in the same few blocks; the Jui Tui shrine and the Chinpracha mansion are close by. You'll keep bumping into murals too. Here street art is commissioned, not sprayed at night, and some of it tells the story of the mines.

Coffee is half the point. Several cafés sit inside the old houses with the original floor tiles still down. Breakfast like the locals: dim sum or Hokkien noodles, served from early morning.

Don't expect a resort. It's a working Thai town — a souvenir shop next to a car repair place, locals at the next table. Patong this is not, and that's the charm.

Thirty minutes to an hour from the west-coast beaches, depending where you start. Taxi or scooter, either is fine. Parking in the centre is tight, so once you're in town a scooter wins.

Please don't budget half an hour. The quarter is small, but it's all in the details, and a quick march down the main street leaves people saying there was nothing to see. Give it two or three hours on foot.

Avoid the middle of the day if you can. The arcades don't shade every stretch, and without the sea breeze the town feels hotter than the coast. Morning light is kinder for photos anyway.

Khao Rang hill is a few minutes' drive away and shows you the whole town from above — go there next. On a Sunday, hang around for the walking street market.